Express Tour du Mont Blanc : five days of ultralight hiking in autumn.
An adventure crossing France, Italy and Switzerland.
Reading time:10 min
The Tour du Mont Blanc Hike, TMB, a rite of passage for multi-day hiking enthusiasts, has almost become a must in the field. It’s becoming increasingly well-known, and is therefore attracting increasing numbers of hikers.
For a more pristine trek away from the summer crowds, we decided to set off at the beginning of October, the season when the weather is more unpredictable, but colours are at their most vibrant. From the bright red of the blueberry bushes to the golden-orange of the larches, this is the season of contrasts.
We’re Floor and Jean
Ultralight Backpacking isn’t just a practice, it’s a state of mind.This approach simplifies hiking by lightening the equipment taken along, and detaching from the superfluous.
By choosing ultralightness, backpack weight can be reduced without compromising on comfort, allowing hikers to cover longer distances and explore generally inaccessible lands.
Lightening your backpack also means lightening your spirit, for a transformative hiking experience.
Up for Light - TMB documentary
Equipped with only the strictly necessary in your backpack, we’re ready to set off on five days of intense hiking around Mont Blanc.
Our journey begins at the Simond Factory, situated in Chamonix, at the foot of the Aiguille du Midi.This is where we meet up for the first time, before sharing five days of adventure together.
After 6.5 km of walking, we reach the starting point of the TMB, beneath the iconic arch located next to the Les Houches Tourist Office.
From there, our climb starts up to the Col de Voza and the famous "passerelle du Glacier de Bionnassay", famous for the beauty of the waterfall it overlooks.
We continue towards the Col du Tricot at 2,120 metres, which will guide us to the Miage chalets for a well-deserved lunch break.There we find ourselves alone, facing the beauty of the scenery surrounding us.
Next, we pass by the Auberge du Truc and take a road through the village of Contamines-Montjoie, where we stop to stock up on supplies, before arriving at Notre-Dame de la Gorge, lying at an altitude of 1,209 metres.
From there, we tackle the climb via the Roman road to reach the "Refuge des Prés" lying at 1,933 meters.Everyone finds the final climb of this stage gruelling. We pitch our tent in the darkness of the night before having a quick meal and going to bed.
And with that, the first day of our 5-day Tour du Mont Blanc comes to an end.
While the weather on the first day of our 5-day hike turned out to be mild, the forecast for our second day is a little less optimistic. We start this stage in dry weather until we reach the top of the Col de la Croix du Bonhomme at 2 408 metres.In these high-lying parts, we find ourselves standing before the magical spectacle of flocking birds of prey flying a few meters above our heads.
After watching them for a few minutes, it’s time to push on ahead.We start descending the Col du Bonhomme, and that’s when the heavy rain sets in.The downpour continues right through until we reach Courmayeur.
Despite the unpleasant sensation of water running over our clothes, the weather gives these autumn landscapes an almost mystical look.The fog swirls between the trees, amidst the orange-yellow autumn colours.
After a few hours of hiking, we arrive at a cheese farm where we treat ourselves to a comforting pleasure by buying a piece of Beaufort cheese.Cheese in hand, we set off to find some shelter in the form of an abandoned sheep pen to savour our picnic.
After being sheltered from the rain here, it’s difficult to start hiking again, knowing that we still had several kilometres to go, and that the rain was set to continue.This is the sound of Floor’s voice and her songs that we continue to hear along the way.
En route, we come across another hiker, one of the few of the day, who tells us there’s a storm at the peak, and we won’t be able to stay up there for more than a few moments.We thought he was exaggerating, until we arrive there, and are hit by a wind that prevents us from breathing, and the force of the blinding rain.
“We’d been alone for the previous few days. So when we came across another hiker, we almost thought “My God, there’s another human being!" - Floor
Soaked and frozen, we finally arrive at Courmayeur.Sheer luck, on this evening, as no camp site is open, we have to stay in a hotel.This gives us the opportunity to dry out our clothes.
On this third day of the TMB, a totally different type of weather awaits us...
On waking, we see blue skies and snow-capped mountain peaks.Keen to get going, we grab our bags and set off.
With a few more kilometres in our legs, we find our pace, and the climb becomes more fluid.After crossing the Bertone Refuge (2.034 m), we take the balcony trails, offering spectacular views of the glaciers.Then, over a flatter stretch, we take the time to admire the autumn colours and the beauty of the scenery surrounding us.
“To understand what sun is, you need to experience rain” - Jean
We begin a long descent on a tarred road.It’s time to finally have a picnic break.That’s when Floor expresses her fatigue, as much physical as mental.Doubt sets in about our ability to see our goal through.
I (Jean) give her some space to recentre herself, and prepare a wrap for her, so she can regain her strength.Ultimately, this pass is a turning point:it reinforces our bond and brings us even closer together.
"We could have found this a negative experience. But it was actually a beautiful one, as I felt Jean’s full support." - Floor
With this challenge overcome, we restart the hike at a gentler pace.We tackle the Grand Col Ferret climb (2,536 m). A moment that would remain etched in our memories.From the view over the glaciers to the clouds swirling over the mountains, and the autumnal colours, the setting for this climb is nothing short of spectacular.
Crossing this pass, we enter the third country of our Tour du Mont Blanc:Switzerland.
100 km in from our departure from the Simond Factory, we arrive at La Fouly, our camping spot for the night.
“The idea of luxury changes completely on a trek. Luxury for me is shifting from an uncomfortable state to a comfortable one. That night, it’s just a wooden bench and a table.” - Jean
At the camp site, we spend the evening getting to know a German hiker, providing the opportunity to have the type of discussion one can only have on a trek.
"I love meeting other hikers. When you arrive at a camp site, you already have a connection, some natural common ground." - Floor
For the fourth day, we set off at night, in the light of our headlamps.
First stop at Champex Lake:the grocery shop to get some supplies and enjoy a good cup of coffee.
On this stage, yet another ambiance awaits us... mystical with thick fog and frost.
After a long walk from La Fouly to Champex Lake, we tackle a climb, moving from rock to rock, in the fog right up to "Fenêtre d'Arpette" (2 665 m). Technically-speaking, the climb requires us to place our hands on the rocks, giving us a new feeling of closeness with the mountain.
At the top, we’re unfortunately unable to enjoy the beautiful view the summit can offer, owing to a thick layer of fog.
That evening, we pitch our tents next to the Col de Balme Refuge (2190 m).
By sheer luck, the caretaker is still there to cook us a nice comforting meal.We also spend this last evening listening to his many fascinating stories while enjoying music from the 2000s.
In the morning, a surprise awaits us:a thin carpet of snow covers the scenery, just allowing the blueberry bushes to peek through.
Wonder prevails over the cold, and even Jean, who wakes up feeling ill, gradually regains his energy on taking in this enchanting setting.
Tents folded up, we set off towards Aiguillette des Posettes (2201 m).At this high altitude, the clouds slowly disperse, revealing Mont Blanc with its flanking summits.Fascinated, we forget about time, savouring the moment like children taking in a spectacular sight.
“We rediscover the primitive pleasures of marvelling at the moving clouds, gliding past the mountains, and discovering new colours.” - Jean
Yet, we must head back down.The autumn colours accompany our walk towards Argentière, and then along the Arve up to the Simond Factory, where we’ll be celebrating the end of this adventure.Five days of physical effort, wonderment and sharing, in (almost) all weathers.
"Completing the Tour du Mont Blanc in five days is intense but also magnificent. What stands out the most to me is the sense of unity and the breathtaking scenery, which has left a lasting impression on me." - Floor
Back at the Factory, we discuss the backpack used with the Product Head: lightness, comfort, ventilation, and other aspects.Like us, our gear also made it through the TMB challenge.
Floor’s advice:
If, like Floor, you want to reach the starting point of the Tour du Mont Blanc using public transport, here’s what you need to do:
Rules for bivouacking on the TMB vary from one country to another.
However, this is the various information given:
In France
Floor Denil
Discover my hiking guides and other creations below.
Jean Hacquart
Continue to follow my adventures on YouTube, whether they are over long-distance routes or on a bike.
We hope that this story about our Tour du Mont Blanc hike in ultralight mode will have inspired you for your next adventures.Optimising your gear allows you to hike more seamlessly and be more self-sufficient, making it more enjoyable.
See you soon on the trails!
