Roche écrite variant and stage 2 > from roche écrite to dos d’âne
10KM // 200 D+ / 900 D- // 2 HRS 45
And yet, it wasn't one of the best nights. We woke up very early so we could reach the Roche Écrite summit - a stage not included in the GR trail but which is well worth the trip - before breakfast. The good thing is that we could leave our bags at the gîte and walk unencumbered. 5.30 am, we climbed for a good hour through a vast, rocky, surprisingly arid plain. You really need to pay attention to spot the trail which is marked in white. Throughout the climb, we had a fantastic, clear view of the sea with a few clouds in the distance.
The summit, some 2,200 metres above sea level, left us speechless. There, stretching out before us was the Cirque de Salazie, with not a cloud on the horizon. In the background, we could see part of the Mafate Cirque and the 2 pitons - Piton des Neiges and the Piton de la Fournaise. It was spectacular, the steep green peaks and villages below. We spent a while admiring the amazing view and then walked back down. At 8 am sharp, we sat down for our breakfast which we devoured without even saying grace!
In the meantime, everyone had left the gîte and it was our turn to hit the road and follow the GR towards Dos d’Âne, one of the entry points to the Mafate Cirque. A short stage but what a stage! Certainly one of the most beautiful. First, we again walked through a dense forest, regularly lowering our heads to avoid branches and tree trunks. Soon, through the vegetation, we could make out the Cirque de Mafate on our left. It was a stunning view which remained visible as we walked all along the ridge trail. A feast for the eyes...and a workout for the legs. The guide promised us a stage that was all downhill. It lied: It was all raised mounds which we climbed up and then immediately down - a special treat.
After a final superb, but steep, ridge, we reached the village of Dos d’Âne, high up in the clouds. We came across the only restaurant in the area where we feasted on "rougail saucisses," a spicy sausage stew. When we reached the refuge, we spent a while chatting to other hikers. The evening was fun and, our host had lots of advice to share about the next day.